Happy hour used to be a way for restaurants to fill slow tables before the dinner crowd arrived. Now it is the dinner crowd. The people showing up at 4 p.m. are younger, more intentional about what they drink and far less interested in staying out past 9 than any generation before them.

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm%96 ?F>36CD DF886DE E9:D :D >@C6 E92? 2 A2DD:?8 AC676C6?46] #6D6CG2E:@?D 3@@<65 36EH66? c 2?5 d A]>] 2C6 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]@A6?E23=6]4@>^4^E@A\C6DE2FC2?ED^5:?:?8\EC6?5D^Q C6=lQ?@7@==@HQmFA `bT J62C @G6C J62Ck^2m[ 2?5 2 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^234?6HD]4@>^v|p^%C2G6=^a_ae\EC2G6=\5:?:?8\EC6?5\AC65:4E:@?D\A@:?E\?2EFC6\6D42A6D^DE@CJn:5l`afcdefg`Q C6=lQ?@7@==@HQmD6A2C2E6 5:?:?8 DFCG6Jk^2m 7@F?5 >@C6 E92? 92=7 @7 p>6C:42?D H@F=5 C2E96C 3@@< 2? 62C=J C6D6CG2E:@? 2?5 9625 9@>6 E@ F?H:?5 E92? 4=@D6 @FE 2 32C E23] q242C5:’D k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]3242C5:=:>:E65]4@>^>65:2^?6HD\2C49:G6^4@??64E:@?D\=@42=\7=2G@CD\2?5\=FIFC:@FD\6IA6C:6?46D\E@A\E96\a_ae\3242C5:\4@4<E2:=\EC6?5D\C6A@CE^Q C6=lQ?@7@==@HQma_ae r@4<E2:= %C6?5D #6A@CEk^2m 6G6? 92D 2 ?2>6 7@C :Ei “p7E6C?@@? $@4:6EJ]”k^Am
k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qm%96 ?F>36CD 2C6 92C56C E@ :8?@C6 E92? J@F’5 E9:?<k^9am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmq242C5:’D DFCG6J 7@F?5 bcT @7 J@F?86C 5C:?<6CD :? E96 &]$] ?@H AC676C 62C=:6C 6G6?:?8D @G6C =2E6\?:89E @FE:?8D] x? uC2?46[ E92E ?F>36C :D d`T[ H9:49 E6==D J@F H96C6 p>6C:42? 5C:?<:?8 4F=EFC6 :D =:<6=J 962565]k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm|2?J @7 E96 >@DE E2=<65\23@FE ?6H C6DE2FC2?ED @7 a_ad 92G6 C6DA@?565 3J @A6?:?8 7@C 5:??6C 2D 62C=J 2D c A]>] %96 2A6C:E:7 42E68@CJ :D 8C@H:?8 C:89E 2=@?8D:56 :Ei AC6>:F>\AC:465 2A6C:E:7D 2?5 3:EE6CD :? E96 &]$] k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]E96:HDC]4@>^:?D:89E^AFEE:?8\@?\E96\DAC:EK\E96\2A6C:E:G@\8C@HE9\@AA@CEF?:EJ^Q C6=lQ?@7@==@HQm8C6H `gT 2??F2==Jk^2m 36EH66? a_`g 2?5 a_ab[ H:E9 `hT 8C@HE9 7@C642DE E9C@F89 a_ag] $AC:EK6D[ >:?: k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^?2E:@?2=\>2CE:?:\52J\8=@32=\EC6?5^Qm>2CE:?:Dk^2m 2?5 56DD6CE\2?5\5C:?< A2:C:?8D 2C6 5@>:?2E:?8 27E6C?@@? >6?FD 3642FD6 E96J’C6 >256 7@C 6I24E=J E9:D >@>6?Ei =:89E[ AC6EEJ 2?5 62DJ E@ 6?;@J H:E9@FE HC:E:?8 @77 E96 ?6IE >@C?:?8]k^Am
k7:8FC6 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\:>286 D:K6\=2C86Qmk:>8 DC4lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^r966C7F=\7C:6?5D\E@2DE:?8\H:E9\2\C67C6D9:?8\DF>>6C\5C:?<\:E2=:2?\2A6C:E:G@\4F=EFC6\`_acIdfe];A8Q 2=ElQu@FC A6@A=6 4=:?<:?8 8=2DD6D @7 @C2?86\4@=@C65 4@4<E2:=D H:E9 @C2?86 D=:46D 5FC:?8 92AAJ 9@FC 2E 2 E23=6 D6E H:E9 7@@5]Q 4=2DDlQHA\:>286\agaagdQ DC4D6ElQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^r966C7F=\7C:6?5D\E@2DE:?8\H:E9\2\C67C6D9:?8\DF>>6C\5C:?<\:E2=:2?\2A6C:E:G@\4F=EFC6\`_acIdfe];A8 `_acH[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^r966C7F=\7C:6?5D\E@2DE:?8\H:E9\2\C67C6D9:?8\DF>>6C\5C:?<\:E2=:2?\2A6C:E:G@\4F=EFC6\b__I`eh];A8 b__H[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^r966C7F=\7C:6?5D\E@2DE:?8\H:E9\2\C67C6D9:?8\DF>>6C\5C:?<\:E2=:2?\2A6C:E:G@\4F=EFC6\fegIcba];A8 fegH[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^r966C7F=\7C:6?5D\E@2DE:?8\H:E9\2\C67C6D9:?8\DF>>6C\5C:?<\:E2=:2?\2A6C:E:G@\4F=EFC6\`dbeIgec];A8 `dbeH[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^r966C7F=\7C:6?5D\E@2DE:?8\H:E9\2\C67C6D9:?8\DF>>6C\5C:?<\:E2=:2?\2A6C:E:G@\4F=EFC6\`d_Igc];A8 `d_H[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^r966C7F=\7C:6?5D\E@2DE:?8\H:E9\2\C67C6D9:?8\DF>>6C\5C:?<\:E2=:2?\2A6C:E:G@\4F=EFC6];A8 `e__HQ D:K6DlQW>2I\H:5E9i `_acAIX `__GH[ `_acAIQ 52E2\A:?\>65:2lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^r966C7F=\7C:6?5D\E@2DE:?8\H:E9\2\C67C6D9:?8\DF>>6C\5C:?<\:E2=:2?\2A6C:E:G@\4F=EFC6];A8Q ^mk7:842AE:@? 4=2DDlQHA\6=6>6?E\42AE:@?Qm!9@E@ 4C65:Ei s6A@D:EA9@E@D]k^7:842AE:@?mk^7:8FC6m
k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qm(9J :E’D AC@323=J ?@E 8@:?8 2H2Jk^9am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmu6H6C =2E6 ?:89ED 2?5 =:89E6C 5C:?<D 2C6?’E D:8?D @7 2 86?6C2E:@? 5C:?<:?8 =6DD] %96J’C6 D:8?D @7 @?6 E92E 8@E D6=64E:G6] u@C J@F?86C 5C:?<6CD[ E96 D@4:2= 42=6?52C :D ?@H @AE:>:K65 E96 D2>6 H2J 6G6CJE9:?8 6=D6 :? E96:C =:G6D :Di E:89E6C[ :?E6?E:@?2= 2?5 3F:=E 2C@F?5 24EF2==J 766=:?8 @<2J E96 ?6IE 52J]k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmx7 J@F 92G6?’E EC:65 >2<:?8 E96 c A]>] C6D6CG2E:@? :?DE625 @7 E96 g A]>] @?6[ E96 4C@H5 E92E’D 2=C625J 5@:?8 :E H@F=5 AC@323=J E6== J@F J@F’C6 =2E6]k^Am
k7:8FC6 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\:>286 D:K6\=2C86Qmk:>8 DC4lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^p\5:G6CD6\8C@FA\@7\7C:6?5D\46=63C2E:?8\2?5\5C:?<:?8\366CD\E@86E96C\`_acIdfe];A8Q 2=ElQ$6G6C2= A6@A=6 4=:?< 366C 3@EE=6D 2?5 >F8D E@86E96C :? 2 92AAJ 9@FC E@2DE @FE5@@CD[ H:E9 3=FCC65 8C66?6CJ :? E96 324<8C@F?5]Q 4=2DDlQHA\:>286\agaageQ DC4D6ElQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^p\5:G6CD6\8C@FA\@7\7C:6?5D\46=63C2E:?8\2?5\5C:?<:?8\366CD\E@86E96C\`_acIdfe];A8 `_acH[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^p\5:G6CD6\8C@FA\@7\7C:6?5D\46=63C2E:?8\2?5\5C:?<:?8\366CD\E@86E96C\b__I`eh];A8 b__H[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^p\5:G6CD6\8C@FA\@7\7C:6?5D\46=63C2E:?8\2?5\5C:?<:?8\366CD\E@86E96C\fegIcba];A8 fegH[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^p\5:G6CD6\8C@FA\@7\7C:6?5D\46=63C2E:?8\2?5\5C:?<:?8\366CD\E@86E96C\`dbeIgec];A8 `dbeH[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^p\5:G6CD6\8C@FA\@7\7C:6?5D\46=63C2E:?8\2?5\5C:?<:?8\366CD\E@86E96C\`d_Igc];A8 `d_H[ 9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^p\5:G6CD6\8C@FA\@7\7C:6?5D\46=63C2E:?8\2?5\5C:?<:?8\366CD\E@86E96C];A8 `e__HQ D:K6DlQW>2I\H:5E9i `_acAIX `__GH[ `_acAIQ 52E2\A:?\>65:2lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^HA\4@?E6?E^FA=@25D^a_ae^_e^p\5:G6CD6\8C@FA\@7\7C:6?5D\46=63C2E:?8\2?5\5C:?<:?8\366CD\E@86E96C];A8Q ^mk7:842AE:@? 4=2DDlQHA\6=6>6?E\42AE:@?Qm!9@E@ 4C65:Ei s6A@D:EA9@E@D]k^7:842AE:@?mk^7:8FC6m
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmy6??:76C p==6? :D 2 C6E:C65 AC@76DD:@?2= 4967 2?5 =@?8\E:>6 HC:E6C] w6C H@C< 2AA62CD :? 5@K6?D @7 AF3=:42E:@?D[ :?4=F5:?8 |$}[ *29@@[ %96 (2D9:?8E@? !@DE 2?5 %96 $62EE=6 %:>6D] %96D6 52JD[ D96’D 3FDJ :? E96 <:E496? 56G6=@A:?8 C64:A6D 2?5 EC2G6=:?8 E96 H@C=5[ 2?5 J@F 42? 7:?5 2== 96C 36DE 4C62E:@?D 2E k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^4@@<H92EJ@F=@G6]4@>^Qmr@@< (92E *@F {@G6k^2m]k^Am
kAm%96 A@DE k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^92AAJ\9@FC\?6H\5:??6C\@FE^Qmw2AAJ 9@FC :D E96 ?6H 5:??6C @FE[ 2?5 J@F?86C 5C:?<6CD 2C6 =625:?8 E96 492C86k^2m 2AA62C65 7:CDE @? k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>Qmu@@5 sC:?< {:76k^2m]k^Am

