The hot dog has been America’s most reliable summer food for over a century, and this summer it turns out to be one of its most interesting. The regional debates are real, the culinary ambition in the category is genuine and National Hot Dog Month this July has more substance behind the celebration than the name usually suggests.
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmp>6C:42?D 92G6 366? 62E:?8 9@E 5@8D 3J E96 3:==:@?D 6G6CJ DF>>6C 7@C 2D =@?8 2D 2?J@?6 42? C6>6>36C[ 2?5 E96 ?F>36CD 369:?5 }2E:@?2= w@E s@8 |@?E9 2C6 86?F:?6=J DEC:<:?8] (92E :D 5:776C6?E C:89E ?@H :D ?@E E96 G@=F>6 3FE E96 4@?G6CD2E:@? 92AA6?:?8 2C@F?5 :E[ 2D 4:E:6D DE2<6 D6C:@FD 4F=EFC2= :56?E:EJ @? E96:C @H? G6CD:@? @7 E96 7C2?<[ 4967D 3F:=5 C62= C6DE2FC2?E 4@?46AED 2C@F?5 :E 2?5 2 8C@H:?8 :?5FDECJ 36ED E92E p>6C:42?D 2C6 C625J E@ A2J >@C6 7@C 2 36EE6C @?6]k^Am
k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qmp>6C:42 62ED f 3:==:@? 9@E 5@8D E9:D DF>>6Ck^9am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmp>6C:42?D k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]9@E\5@8]@C8^>65:2^4@?DF>AE:@?\DE2EDQmk^2mEJA:42==J 4@?DF>6 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]9@E\5@8]@C8^>65:2^4@?DF>AE:@?\DE2EDQ C6=lQ?@7@==@HQmf 3:==:@? 9@E 5@8Dk^2m 36EH66? |6>@C:2= s2J 2?5 {23@C s2J[ C@F89=J g`g 6G6CJ D64@?5 E9C@F89@FE E96 DF>>6C] yF=J 2=@?6 244@F?ED 7@C `_T @7 2??F2= C6E2:= 9@E 5@8 D2=6D[ 2?5 @? E96 u@FCE9 @7 yF=J[ p>6C:42?D AFE 2H2J 2? 6DE:>2E65 `d_ >:==:@? 9@E 5@8D :? 2 D:?8=6 52J]k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmx?5FDECJ 2?2=JDED k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]:3:DH@C=5]4@>^F?:E65\DE2E6D^:?5FDECJ^9@E\5@8\D2FD286\AC@5F4E:@?^cgac^Qmk^2mG2=F6 E96 &]$] 9@E 5@8 2?5 D2FD286 AC@5F4E:@? D64E@C 2E k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]:3:DH@C=5]4@>^F?:E65\DE2E6D^:?5FDECJ^9@E\5@8\D2FD286\AC@5F4E:@?^cgac^Q C6=lQ?@7@==@HQmSae]c 3:==:@? :? a_aek^2m[ H:E9 AC@5F46CD 7@4FD65 @? AC6>:F>:K2E:@? 2?5 ?:496 AC@5F4ED 36DE A@D:E:@?65 :? E96 42E68@CJ 8@:?8 7@CH2C5] u@C 2 7@@5 E92E DE2CE65 2D 2 DEC66E 42CE DE2A=6[ E9@D6 2C6 D6C:@FD ?F>36CD]k^Am
k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qmr9:428@ 5C2HD E96 =:?6 @? :ED 5@8k^9am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm}@ 4:EJ 92D 4@5:7:65 :ED 9@E 5@8 H:E9 >@C6 4@?G:4E:@? E92? r9:428@] %96 r9:428@ 5@8 :D 2 DA64:7:4[ ?@?\?68@E:23=6 2DD6>3=Ji 2? 2==\3667 ':6??2 q667 7C2?< @? 2 DE62>65 A@AAJ D665 3F?[ E@AA65 H:E9 J6==@H >FDE2C5[ 49@AA65 H9:E6 @?:@?[ E@>2E@ H6586D[ 2 5:== A:4<=6 DA62C[ DA@CE A6AA6CD 2?5 2 52D9 @7 46=6CJ D2=E]k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm%96 CF=6 6G6CJ r9:428@2? H:== DE2E6 H:E9@FE 36:?8 2D<65 :D E96 @?6 23@FE <6E49FAi E96C6 :D ?@?6[ 2?5 E96C6 H:== ?@E 36 2?J] %9:D :D ?@E 2 AC676C6?46 3FE 2 A@:?E @7 4:G:4 :56?E:EJ[ @?6 E96 4:EJ 92D >2:?E2:?65 E9C@F89 86?6C2E:@?D @7 9@E 5@8 DE2?5D[ 5C:G6\E9C@F89D 2?5 DA@CED G6?F6D[ 2?5 :ED DEC:4E @CE9@5@IJ 92D D:?46 364@>6 2 42==:?8 42C5 H6== 36J@?5 x==:?@:D[ H:E9 C6DE2FC2?ED 24C@DD E96 4@F?ECJ 3F:=5:?8 4C65:3:=:EJ 3J C6A=:42E:?8 :E 6I24E=J C2E96C E92? C:77:?8 @? :E]k^Am
k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qm}6H *@C< <66AD :E D:>A=6 @? AFCA@D6k^9am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm%96 }6H *@C<\DEJ=6 5@8 @A6C2E6D 7C@> 2 4@>A=6E6=J 5:776C6?E A9:=@D@A9J] p? 2==\3667 7C2?<[ DE62>65 @C 3@:=65[ =2?5D :? 2 D@7E 3F? H:E9 J6==@H >FDE2C5 2?5 2 49@:46 @7 D2F6C<C2FE @C @?:@? D2F46[ D6CG65 72DE 7C@> 2 42CE :? E96 >:55=6 @7 H92E6G6C 6=D6 :D 92AA6?:?8] %96 }6H *@C< 5@8 :D 567:?65 3J 64@?@>J @7 :?8C65:6?ED 2?5 DA665 @7 6I64FE:@?[ 3F:=E 7@C 2 4:EJ E92E 92D 366? 62E:?8 =F?49 @? E96 >@G6 D:?46 AFD9\42CE G6?5@CD H@C<65 E96 {@H6C t2DE $:56 :? E96 `gh_D] xE :D 2 7@C>2E D@ DEC:AA65 5@H? E92E :E 92D ?@E9:?8 E@ 2A@=@8:K6 7@C 2?5 ?@E9:?8 =67E E@ 4FE]k^Am
k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qm%F4D@?’D $@?@C2? 5@8 C6HC:E6D E96 C64:A6 6?E:C6=Jk^9am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm%96 >@DE 7@@5\7@CH2C5 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^C68:@?2=\9@E\5@8D^QmC68:@?2= 9@E 5@8k^2m DE@CJ :? p>6C:42 C:89E ?@H 36=@?8D E@ %F4D@?] %96 >@56C? $@?@C2? 5@8 :D 86?6C2==J EC2465 E@ w6C>@D:==@[ E96 42A:E2= @7 E96 |6I:42? DE2E6 @7 $@?@C2[ EC2G6=:?8 ?@CE9 24C@DD E96 3@C56C :?E@ pC:K@?2[ H96C6 :E E@@< 9@=5 :? C6DE2FC2?ED 2?5 DEC66E 42CED 2?5 ?6G6C =6E 8@] %96 3F:=5 :D 2 DEF5J :? 4@?EC@==65 :?5F=86?46i 2 324@?\HC2AA65[ 2==\3667 7C2?< ?6DE=65 :? 2 D@7E 3@=:==@\DEJ=6 3F?[ =@2565 H:E9 A:?E@ 362?D[ 49@AA65 E@>2E@ 2?5 @?:@?[ J6==@H >FDE2C5[ >2J@??2:D6 2?5 ;2=2A6?@ D2=D2]k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmx? u63CF2CJ a_ae[ ':D:E %F4D@? =2F?4965 E96 @77:4:2= k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]G:D:EEF4D@?]@C8^2CE:4=6D^A@DE^G:D:E\EF4D@?\=2F?496D\D@?@C2?\5@8\EC2:=\46=63C2E:?8\E96\4:EJD\:4@?:4\4F=:?2CJ\4F=EFC6^Qm$@?@C2? s@8 %C2:=k^2m[ 2 D6=7\8F:565 H63 2AA 4@??64E:?8 =@42=D 2?5 G:D:E@CD E@ DE@AD 24C@DD E96 4:EJ] t= vF6C@ r2?6=@[ C64:A:6?E @7 2 y2>6D q62C5 p>6C:42’D r=2DD:4D pH2C5[ :D @?6 @7 E96 EC2:=’D 36DE\<?@H? DE@AD] %96 EC2:=’D =2F?49 C6:?7@C46D %F4D@?’D DE2?5:?8 2D 2 &}t$r~ r:EJ @7 v2DEC@?@>J]k^Am
k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qmr967D E2<6 E96 7C2?< D6C:@FD=Jk^9am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm~?6 6I2>A=6 @7 E96 AC6>:F>:K2E:@? :?5FDECJ 2?2=JDED 56D4C:36 :D k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]=67EJD8G=]4@>^Qm{67EJ’D (6DE t?5 %2G6C?k^2m :? vC66?G:==6[ $@FE9 r2C@=:?2] %96 4@?46AE :D 3F:=E 2C@F?5 E96 :562 E92E E96 9@E 5@8 42? 42CCJ D6C:@FD 4F=:?2CJ 2>3:E:@?i @?6 D:8?2EFC6 7C2?< 2?5 2 D64@?5 E92E 492?86D >@?E9=J E@ 762EFC6 2 5:776C6?E >2;@C =628F6 32==A2C< 9@E 5@8]k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmx? |2J a_ae[ E96 >@?E9=J 762EFC6 H2D 2 $@?@C2? 5@8 :?DA:C65 3J E96 pC:K@?2 s:2>@?5324<D[ 4@?7:C>65 @? E96 C6DE2FC2?E’D @H? D@4:2= >65:2] x? 2 7@@5 D46?6 2D 4@>A6E:E:G6 2D vC66?G:==6’D[ 2 C@E2E:?8 >@?E9=J 4@?46AE :D 2 D6C:@FD 4@>>:E>6?E[ @?6 E92E C67=64ED 2 3C@256C 4@?G:4E:@? E92E E96 7C2?< 56D6CG6D E@ 36 EC62E65 2D 2 G69:4=6 7@C 4F=:?2CJ DE@CJE6==:?8[ ?@E ;FDE 2 G69:4=6 7@C >FDE2C5]k^Am
k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qm%96 42E68@CJ’D ?6IE 492AE6C :D 2=C625J 36:?8 HC:EE6?k^9am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm(92E :D 92AA6?:?8 E@ E96 9@E 5@8 :? E96 DF>>6C @7 a_ae :D ?@E 2 56A2CEFC6 7C@> H92E E96 7@@5 92D 2=H2JD 366?] %96 DEC66E 42CE 5@8 2?5 E96 FAD42=6 C6DE2FC2?E 7C2?< 2C6 6IAC6DD:@?D @7 E96 D2>6 E9:?8] xE’D 2 7@@5 D@ 566A=J 6>365565 :? p>6C:42? =:76 E92E :E 42? 23D@C3 2>3:E:@? H:E9@FE =@D:?8 E96 A=@E]k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmp? :?5FDECJ H@CE9 3:==:@?D[ 2 EC2:= 46=63C2E:?8 %F4D@?’D &}t$r~ r:EJ @7 v2DEC@?@>J DE2EFD 2?5 2 >@?E9=J C@E2E:?8 4@?46AE :? E96 $@FE9 r2C@=:?2 &ADE2E6 2== A@:?E E@H2C5 E96 D2>6 4@?4=FD:@?i E96 9@E 5@8 :D ?@E H2:E:?8 2C@F?5 E@ 36 C65:D4@G6C65j :E 92D 366? 96C6 2== 2=@?8[ 7665:?8 A6@A=6 H6==[ @? E96:C @H? E6C>D[ H96C6G6C E96J 92AA6? E@ 36 DE2?5:?8]k^Am
kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmy6??:76C p==6? :D 2 C6E:C65 AC@76DD:@?2= 4967 2?5 =@?8\E:>6 HC:E6C] w6C H@C< 2AA62CD :? 5@K6?D @7 AF3=:42E:@?D[ :?4=F5:?8 |$}[ *29@@[ %96 (2D9:?8E@? !@DE 2?5 %96 $62EE=6 %:>6D] %96D6 52JD[ D96’D 3FDJ :? E96 <:E496? 56G6=@A:?8 C64:A6D 2?5 EC2G6=:?8 E96 H@C=5[ 2?5 J@F 42? 7:?5 2== 96C 36DE 4C62E:@?D 2E k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^4@@<H92EJ@F=@G6]4@>^Qmr@@< (92E *@F {@G6k^2m]k^Am
kAm%96 A@DE k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^?2E:@?2=\9@E\5@8\>@?E9\2>6C:42^Qmf 3:==:@? 9@E 5@8D =2E6C[ p>6C:42 :D 7:?2==J DE2CE:?8 E@ E2<6 E96 7C2?< D6C:@FD=Jk^2m 2AA62C65 7:CDE @? k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>Qmu@@5 sC:?< {:76k^2m]k^Am
