A chef can spend a decade in a city kitchen without a diner ever learning their name. The hours run past midnight, the line never slows and credit for the plate almost always goes to someone else; it’s a career built on proximity to fame that rarely delivers any of it. A handful of highly credentialed chefs, with Michelin stars, James Beard nods and years in kitchens most people will never get a reservation at, are making an unusual move: leaving major culinary markets for smaller cities and towns, where they can build restaurants under their own names.

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