Mario Carbone almost didn’t bother naming it. Back in 2013, his ready-to-open restaurant was missing one thing from the menu: a vegetarian pasta, so he built a cheeky, pizzeria-style rigatoni, tossed it in a spicy vodka sauce and added it at the last minute. More than a decade later, that addition is why people fly to Las Vegas without a reservation anywhere else on the trip, film themselves recreating it from a paused TikTok video and can’t get a table in Greenwich Village at all.
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