Wisconsin’s wine country is ready to be taken seriously. Six wineries on a limestone ridge in northeastern Wisconsin have agreed to a rule that most American wine regions wouldn’t: each makes its own version of a dry white wine called Ledge Blanc. Before any of them can put that name on the bottle, the wine must score at least 90 out of 100 points from a blind tasting panel of outside professionals.
It’s a bold thing to do in a state better known for sweet cherry wine, but it’s one of the best reasons to visit Door County right now.
kAmk2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]=65863=2?4]4@>^Q C6=lQ?@@A6?6CQ E2C86ElQ03=2?<Qm{6586 q=2?4k^2m :D 2 D92C65 DEJ=6 H:E9 2 D92C65 ?2>6[ >F49 =:<6 tFC@A62? H:?6] ~=5 (@C=5 C68:@?D =:<6 qFC8F?5J[ r92>A28?6[ 2?5 r9:2?E: 2C6 567:?65 3J A=246 C2E96C E92? 8C2A6] %96 D:I H:?6C:6D 6249 >2<6 E96:C @H? H:?6 7C@> E96:C @H? G:?6J2C5D[ 3FE :E 92D E@ E2DE6 2D :7 :E 42>6 7C@> E9:D DA64:7:4 DEC6E49 @7 ?@CE962DE6C? (:D4@?D:? 367@C6 :E 42? FD6 E96 ?2>6]k^Am
kAm“%96 8@2= L@7 E96 {6586 q=2?4 !C@;64EN :D E@ 7@DE6C 2 4@@A6C2E:G6 H:?6>2<:?8 4F=EFC6 2?5 46=63C2E6 E96 C68:@?’D F?:BF6 DEJ=6 E9C@F89 2 C64@8?:K23=6 2AA6==2E:@? H:?6[” D2JD p>J v2=6[ ~H?6C @7 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]2?49@C65C@@EDH:?6]4@>^Q C6=lQ?@@A6?6CQ E2C86ElQ03=2?<Qmp?49@C65 #@@ED ':?6J2C5 2?5 (:?6CJk^2m]k^Am
kAm}2>6=J[ 2 4C:DA[ C67C6D9:?8[ =:89E\3@5:65 H:?6 H:E9 AC@?@F?465 2C@>2E:4D[ 56=:G6C:?8 G:3C2?E 24:5:EJ H9:=6 >2:?E2:?:?8 @G6C2== 32=2?46] xE’D =:89E 2?5 ?@E @2<J] x7 J@F @C56C $2FG:8?@? q=2?4 @C !:?@E vC:8:@[ {6586 q=2?4 :D E96 D2>6 A2CE @7 E96 H:?6 =:DE]k^Am
kAm|@DE :>A@CE2?E=J[ :E’D 2 7@@5 H:?6[ >62?E E@ 36 2E 9@>6 H:E9 (:D4@?D:? k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]56=:D9<?@H=6586]4@>^E96\36DE\G682?\BF6D@\5:A^Q C6=lQ?@@A6?6CQ E2C86ElQ03=2?<Qm4966D6k^2m[ 2 uC:52J ?:89E 7:D9 7CJ[ 2?5 2 ?:46 >62= @FE] &?E:= C646?E=J[ 4@=5\4=:>2E6 H:?6>2<:?8 :? E96 &AA6C |:5H6DE H2D AFD965 E@H2C5 DF82C E@ 32=2?46 AF?:D9:?8 24:5:EJ[ 96?46 E96 A=6E9@C2 @7 DH66E[ 7CF:EJ H:?6 E96 C68:@? :D <?@H? 7@C]k^Am
kAm%96? :? a_`f E96 &?:G6CD:EJ @7 |:??6D@E2 C6=62D65 xE2D42[ :ED 7:7E9 4@=5\92C5J H:?6 8C2A6 2?5[ 3J E96 F?:G6CD:EJ’D 244@F?E[ E96 7:CDE H:E9 24:5:EJ =@H 6?@F89 E@ >2<6 2 9:89\BF2=:EJ 5CJ H9:E6] xE2D42 ?@H 2?49@CD >@DE {6586 q=2?4Dj =6DD E92? 2 564256 28@[ E96 H:?6 36:?8 A@FC65 E@52J H2D >F49 92C56C E@ >2<6 96C6]k^Am
k9am%2DE:?8 E96 {6586k^9am
kAmpC8F23=J[ E96 36DE H2J E@ 6IA=@C6 2 C68:@? :D E9C@F89 E96 =@42= 7@@5 2?5 5C:?< D46?6] %96 (:D4@?D:? {6586 DA2?D E96 ?@CE962DE6C? A2CE @7 E96 DE2E6 2=@?8 E96 {2<6 |:49:82? 4@2DE] $:I H:?6C:6D 4FCC6?E=J >2<6 {6586 q=2?4[ 2?5 7@FC 2C6 :? s@@C r@F?EJ[ DA2465 2=@?8 E96 A6?:?DF=2’D DA:?6[ H9:49 >2<6D 7@C 2 A6C764E @?6\52J H:?6 EC:Ai !2C2==6= cc ':?6J2C5 U2>Aj (:?6CJ :? $EFC86@? q2Jj |:I65 |625:2 (:?6D 2?5 p?49@C65 #@@ED ':?6J2C5 U2>Aj (:?6CJ[ 3@E9 :? t88 w2C3@Cj 2?5 (9:E642A (:?6CJ :? t==:D@? q2J] %96 @E96C EH@[ (@=7 2?5 u@I (:?6CJ 2?5 +:68=6C (:?6CJ[ 2C6 72CE96C D@FE9 ?62C {2<6 (:??6328@]k^Am
kAm“(6 2C6 E2<:?8 E96 8C2A6\E@\8=2DD 4@?46AE E@ E96 ?6IE =6G6= 3J 8:G:?8 G:D:E@CD 56DE:?2E:@?D E92E 92G6 366? G6EE65 7@C BF2=:EJ DE2?52C5D 2?5 2? @AA@CEF?:EJ E@ 86E E@ <?@H @FC C68:@? @?6 D:A 2E 2 E:>6[” D2JD v2=6]k^Am
kAm$E2CE :? $EFC86@? q2J 2?5 9625 ?@CE9j w:89H2J ca H:== E2<6 J@F A2DE @C492C5 >2C<6ED 7:==65 H:E9 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]56=:D9<?@H=6586]4@>^4=2DD:4\G682?\2AA=6\A:6^Q C6=lQ?@@A6?6CQ E2C86ElQ03=2?<Qm2AA=6Dk^2m 2?5 4:56C[ :562= DE@AD 36EH66? E2DE:?8 C@@>D] %96 4:C4F:E E2<6D 2 =:EE=6 @G6C 2? 9@FC @7 5C:G:?8[ H9:49 =62G6D A=6?EJ @7 E:>6 E@ C6=2I 36EH66? DE@AD]k^Am
kAmq68:? 2E !2C2==6= cc[ H96C6 E96 E2DE:?8 C@@> =@@<D @FE @G6C E96 G:?6J2C5D] %CJ E96 {6586 q=2?4[ @7 4@FCD6[ 3FE 2=D@ E96:C :46\H:?6 DEJ=6D 2?5 v=24:6C uF>é[ 2 5CJ H9:E6 H:E9 9@?6J 2?5 @2<] %H6?EJ >:?FE6D ?@CE9 :? t88 w2C3@C :D p?49@C65 #@@EDj E96:C >@DE C646?E {6586 q=2?4 4@?E2:?D g`T xE2D42 8C2A6D[ D@ 4@>A2C6 9@H E96J E2DE6 24C@DD E96 5:776C6?E H:?6C:6D]k^Am
kAmp=D@ :? t88 w2C3@C :D |:I65 |625:2[ 2 H:?6CJ 2?5 >6256CJ E92E D@FC46D 7CF:E 2?5 9@?6J 6?E:C6=J 7C@> E96 (:D4@?D:? {6586] xED {6586 q=2?4 :D 6DE2E6\8C@H?[ 2?5 >2<6 DFC6 E@ E2DE6 E96:C k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]56=:D9<?@H=6586]4@>^496CCJ\32CD^Q C6=lQ?@@A6?6CQ E2C86ElQ03=2?<Qm496CCJk^2m AéE\?2E[ H:E9 =@42= E2CE 496CC:6D :? E96 DEJ=6 @7 2 5CJ H:?6]k^Am
kAmv2=6 255D E92E 6G6CJ {6586 q=2?4 :D 5:776C6?E[ 3FE 2== D92C6 2 4C:DA[ 2C@>2E:4[ C67C6D9:?8 DEJ=6]k^Am
k9am}@H :D E96 %:>6 E@ v@k^9am
kAms@@C r@F?EJ’D 9:89 D62D@? :D yF=J[ H:E9 2? 2G6C286 ?:89E=J =@58:?8 C2E6 @7 Sbac[ 244@C5:?8 E@ E96 s@@C r@F?EJ %@FC:D> +@?6 r@>>:DD:@?] ~4E@36C :D 2 5:776C6?E DE@CJ[ H:E9 E96 2G6C286 ?:89E=J C2E6 2E @?=J Saee[ 23@FE Sdg 4962A6C] ~44FA2?4J 2=D@ 5C@AD E@ 23@FE e_T[ H9:49 :? AC24E:46 >62?D 62D:6C A2C<:?8 2?5 =6DD H2:E:?8 7@C 2 E23=6]k^Am
kAm“u2== :? s@@C r@F?EJ 42? 36 7F== @7 6?6C8J H:E9 @FC >2?J H66<6?5 76DE:G2=D @C D6C6?6 H:E9 4@=@C7F= 72== 5C:G6D[ 4C:DA >@C?:?8 9:<6D 2?5 =6:DFC6=J 5:??6CD 762EFC:?8 =@42= :?8C65:6?ED[” D2JD y6? #@86CD[ s:C64E@C @7 |65:2 #6=2E:@?D 7@C k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]5@@C4@F?EJ]4@>^Q C6=lQ?@@A6?6CQ E2C86ElQ03=2?<Qms6DE:?2E:@? s@@C r@F?EJk^2m]k^Am
kAmu6DE:G2= H66<6?5D 2C6 E96 3FD:6DE H66<6?5Dj $:DE6C q2J’D u2== u6DE C6EFC?D 7@C :ED g_E9 J62C ~4E@36C `e\`gE9[ H:E9 ?62C=J EH@ 5@K6? 32?5D[ 2? 2CED 2?5 4C27ED 72:C H:E9 `__ G6?5@CD[ 7@@5 3@@E9D[ 2 {:@?D r=F3 7:D9 3@:= 2?5 2 $2EFC52J A2C256 7@==@H:?8 E96 A2?42<6 3C62<72DE]k^Am
kAm%96 H66<6?5 367@C6[ t88 w2C3@C’D !F>A<:? !2E49 u6DE:G2= 92D 42C?:G2= C:56D 2?5 =:G6 >FD:4[ 2?5 EH@ {6586 q=2?4 AC@5F46CD H:E9:? 2 76H >:?FE6D’ 5C:G6]k^Am
kAm#@86CD 255D E92E[ “xE’D ECF=J 6I4:E:?8 E@ D66 H92E E9:D 8C@FA @7 s@@C r@F?EJ H:?6>2<6CD 92D 4C62E65 H:E9 {6586 q=2?4] xE D9@H42D6D ?@E @?=J 9@H H6== 4@=5\92C5J 8C2A6D 42? 8C@H :? s@@C r@F?EJ[ 3FE 2=D@ E96 6I46AE:@?2= H:?6 E92E 42? 36 4C27E65 7C@> E9@D6 8C2A6D]”k^Am
k9am(96C6 E@ $E2Jk^9am
kAmtA9C2:> :D 2 AC24E:42= 32D6[ E9@F89 2?J @7 E96 `h 4@>>F?:E:6D E92E >2<6 FA s@@C r@F?EJ AFE J@F H:E9:? C6249 @7 72== 76DE:G2=D 2?5 E2DE:?8 C@@>D] t249 92D :ED @H? 492C24E6Ci $EFC86@? q2J :D 2 H@C<:?8 4:EJ H:E9 2 D9:AJ2C5[ u:D9 rC66< 92D D9@AD 2?5 E96 DE2E6 A2C<[ 2?5 tA9C2:> :D E96 H9:E6\4=2A3@2C5 A@DE42C5 @7 s@@C r@F?EJ]k^Am
kAm%96 w:==D:56 (2E6C7C@?E w@E6= :D tA9C2:>’D =2DE DFCG:G:?8 8C2?5 9@E6=] xE 3682? 2D 2 7@FC\C@@> =@8 423:? 2?5 92D D:?46 6IA2?565 E@ :?4=F56 2 ``_\7@@E HC2A2C@F?5 A@C49[ 7:G6 =FIFCJ DF:E6D[ 2?5 EH@ 4@EE286D] xE ;@:?65 E96 }2E:@?2= #68:DE6C @7 w:DE@C:4 !=246D :? `hgd 2?5[ 7@C D>2==\E@H? r9C:DE>2D >@G:6 72?D[ 2AA62CD :? p r96CCJ !:6 r9C:DE>2D[ D9@E 6?E:C6=J @? =@42E:@? :? s@@C r@F?EJ 2?5 DEC62>:?8 @? D6G6C2= A=2E7@C>D]k^Am
kAmp D9@CE H2=< 2H2J[ E96 ~=5 !@DE ~77:46 #6DE2FC2?E D6CG6D 7:D9 3@:=D |@?52J E9C@F89 $2EFC52J 5FC:?8 E96 D62D@? :? E96 D2>6 3F:=5:?8 E92E 96=5 tA9C2:>’D A@DE @77:46 :? E96 62C=J `h__D]k^Am
kAm|2<6 DFC6 E@ D9@H FA 62C=J 2?5 DE2?5 3J E96 7:C6] $42?5:?2G:2? :>>:8C2?ED 3C@F89E E96 >6E9@5 E@ E96 2C62 7@C 7665:?8 2 4C@H5i H9:E67:D9[ A@E2E@6D[ 2?5 @?:@?D 8@ :?E@ 2 <6EE=6 @G6C 2? @A6? 7:C6] pE E96 6?5[ E96 3@:= >2DE6C E9C@HD <6C@D6?6 @? E96 7=2>6D[ 2==@H:?8 E96 7:D9 @:=D 2?5 D@@E E@ 8@ @G6C E96 D:56[ 2?5 5:??6C :D C625J] tG6CJ@?6 9625D :?D:56 7@C 5:??6C[ 2=@?8 H:E9 2 D=:46 @7 =@42= 496CCJ A:6 2E E96 6?5]k^Am
kAmxE’D 2=D@ E96 6I24E >62= E96D6 H:?6D H6C6 3F:=E 7@Ci 2 9:89\24:5 H9:E6 A2:CD H6== H:E9 3FEE6C65 H9:E67:D9] pD v2=6 ?@E6D[ 9625:?8 E@ s@@C r@F?EJ ?@H :D “2 A6C764E E:>6 E@ 4@KJ FA @FED:56 H:E9 A2E:@ 962E6CD 2?5 7:C6 A:ED H9:=6 DE:== 6?;@J:?8 E96 D62D@?2= G:6HD @7 E96 H@@5D 2?5 G:?6J2C5 DFCC@F?5:?8 FD] p?5 @7 4@FCD6[ ?@ D9@CE286 @7 H:?6P”k^Am
