For years, Greenville, South Carolina, was a city travelers flew over on the way to somewhere better known, but lately it has become a destination in its own right. Tucked into the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the Upstate town has built a compact, walkable downtown around a waterfall park, a 28-mile rail trail and a cluster of museums, then added a food scene good enough to earn its first Michelin Star and host a season of “Top Chef.” Forty-eight hours is enough to eat well, get outside and take in the art, mostly without touching the car.

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