A midnight compromise from 1938 Harlem became the flavor formula the food industry lives by

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm%96 49:4<6?\2?5\H277=6D 4@>3:?2E:@? >256 D6?D6 =2E6 2E ?:89E 324< :? `hbg] p ;2KK >FD:4:2? 7:?:D9:?8 2 =2E6 D6E 925 >:DD65 5:??6C 2?5 H2D 9@FCD 7C@> 3C62<72DE] uC:65 49:4<6? H2D 5:??6C[ 2?5 H277=6D H6C6 3C62<72DE] pE EH@ :? E96 >@C?:?8[ E96 A=2E6 E92E H2D ?6:E96C H2D E96 @?6 E92E H@C<65]k^Am

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmw6C3 wF5D@? @A6?65 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^3=@8]C6DJ]4@>^a_a_^_h^E96\=2J6C65\=6824J\@7\C@D4@6D\9@FD6\@7\49:4<6?\H277=6D^Qm#@D4@6’D w@FD6 @7 r9:4<6? 2?5 (277=6Dk^2m :? {@?8 q6249 :? `hfd[ 3C:?8:?8 E96 w2C=6> 4@>3:?2E:@? E@ 2 (6DE r@2DE 2F5:6?46] ~G6C E96 ?6IE 564256D[ E96 5:D9 DAC625 H6== 36J@?5 :ED w2C=6> @C:8:?D[ 2AA62C:?8 @? >6?FD 24C@DD E96 4@F?ECJ 367@C6 E96 62C=J\a_`_D 3CF?49 H2G6 82G6 :E 2 A6C>2?6?E D=@E] qJ E96 a_`_D[ E96 5:D9 925 EC2G6=65 7C@> 2 =2E6\?:89E ;2KK 4=F3 4@F?E6C E@ 3CF?49 >6?FD :? 4:E:6D E92E 925 ?6G6C 962C5 @7 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^E965:86DE@?=:?6]4@>^2CED\4F=EFC6^E96\9:DE@CJ\@7\49:4<6?\2?5\H277=6D\92C=6>^Qm(6==D $FAA6C r=F3k^2m]k^Am

k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qmw@E 9@?6Ji $2>6 42D6[ ?62C=J h_ J62CD =2E6Ck^9am

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9QmuFD:@? DH66E 7=2G@CD @? C6DE2FC2?E >6?FD 2C6 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]?C?]4@>^>6?F\EC6?5D^H92E\D\4@>:?8\E@\C6DE2FC2?E\>6?FD\:?\a_agQmFA 23@FE adTk^2m[ H:E9 4@?E:?F65 8C@HE9 AC65:4E65 E9C@F89 a_ag[ 2E 2 >@>6?E H96? DH66E C2?<D 2D E96 >@DE =:<65 32D:4 7=2G@C :? %649?@>:4’D 4@?DF>6C E2DE6 C6D62C49] k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^H92E\:D\9@E\9@?6J^Qmw@E 9@?6Jk^2m 7@==@HD E96 D2>6 7@C>F=2i 2 D2G@CJ @C DA:4J 32D6[ 2 DH66E 4@F?E6CH6:89E 2?5 E96 4@?EC2DE E92E >2<6D 3@E9 4@>A@?6?ED E2DE6 >@C6 =:<6 E96>D6=G6D]k^Am

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmw@E 9@?6J 92D k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^52E2DD6?E:2=]4@>^C6D@FC46^7=2G@C\EC6?5D\9@E\9@?6J^Q C6=lQ?@7@==@HQm8C@H? 3J ?62C=J ab_Tk^2m @? C6DE2FC2?E >6?FD @G6C E96 A2DE 7@FC J62CD] !:KK2[ H:?8D[ 5@F89?FED 2?5 7C:65 49:4<6? D2?5H:496D ?@H D92C6 E96 D2>6 7=2G@C AC:?4:A=6 (6==D $FAA6C r=F3 3F:=E 2 5:D9 2C@F?5 :? `hbgi @?6 4@>A@?6?E 56=:G6CD 962E 2?5 D2=E[ E96 @E96C 3C:?8D DH66E?6DD[ 2?5 E96 5:DE2?46 36EH66? E96> :D H96C6 E96 2AA6E:E6 =:G6D]k^Am

k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qmp `hbg A=2E6 8@E :ED @H? :?5FDECJ E6C>k^9am

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm%96 7@@5 :?5FDECJ 92D 8:G6? E96 DH66E\D2G@CJ 42E68@CJ 2 ?2>6i “k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]E649?@>:4]4@>^a_ae\FD\7@@5D6CG:46\EC6?5D^Q C6=lQ?@7@==@HQmDH2G@CJk^2m”] ~A6C2E@CD 2C6 36:?8 FC865 E@ C6G:D:E :E :? ?6H 7@C>D 7@C a_ae[ :?4=F5:?8 >:D@ 42C2>6= 2?5 E29:?: D@7E D6CG6] uCF:E\7@CH2C5 8=2K6D @? D2G@CJ AC@E6:?D 2?5 9@?6J 7:?:D96D @? 492C4FE6C:6 3@2C5D 2C6 G2C:2E:@?D @? E96 D2>6 E6>A=2E6[ 6249 @?6 E96 D2>6 4@?EC2DE C63F:=E :? 2 5:776C6?E 4@?E6IE] p 7=2G@C 4@>3:?2E:@? E96 w2C=6> <:E496? H@C<65 @FE 2E >:5?:89E 5FC:?8 E96 #@@D6G6=E 25>:?:DEC2E:@? ?@H 5C:G6D 7@C>2= EC6?5 7@C642DED 7@C E96 7@@5 D6CG:46 :?5FDECJ]k^Am

k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qm%96 AC:?4:A=6 E92E DAC625 E@ 6G6CJ 52JA2CEk^9am

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm$H66E\D2G@CJ 4@?EC2DE CF?D E9C@F89 9@H >2;@C 492:?D 92G6 3F:=E E96:C >@C?:?8 >6?FD] %96 D2>6 5J?2>:4 D9@HD FA :? >2A=6\8=2K65 49:4<6? 3:D4F:ED 2?5 9@E 9@?6J 3C62<72DE D2?5H:496D 2E 492:?D 7C@> 72DE\42DF2= E@ 7F==\D6CG:46] r9:4<6? :E6>D @? 3C62<72DE >6?FD k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]?C?]4@>^7@@5\EC6?5D^C6DE2FC2?ED\=@@<\E@\49:4<6?\2E\3C62<72DE\2D\EC277:4\564=:?6DQm8C6H f]eTk^2m :? E96 D64@?5 BF2CE6C @7 a_ad[ 6G6? 2D BF:4<\D6CG:46 3C62<72DE EC277:4 76== ?62C=J hT @G6C2== :? E96 D2>6 A6C:@5] k^Am

k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qm%96 5:D9[ C63F:=Ek^9am

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmk2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]A@4<6E7C:6?5=JC64:A6D]4@>^49:4<6?\2?5\H277=6D^Qmr9:4<6? 2?5 H277=6Dk^2m 92D >@G65 :?E@ 9@>6 <:E496?D 2?5 <6AE 252AE:?8] !2CE @7 H92E >2<6D :E 252AE23=6 :D DECF4EFC2=i E96 H277=6’D 8C:5 9@=5D D2F46 :? A@4<6ED C2E96C E92? =6EE:?8 :E CF?[ D@ 6249 DF3DE:EFE:@? DE:== 56=:G6CD E96 D2>6 C2E:@ @7 4C:DA 32D6 E@ DH66E 7:?:D9] p 4@C?3C625 H277=6 C6A=246D E96 3FEE6C>:=< 32D6 2?5 E2<6D E96 DH66E?6DD @77 E96 H277=6[ =62G:?8 :E E@ E96 D2F46] p 496552C H277=6 5@6D E96 D2>6 H:E9 >@C6 D92CA?6DD] k^Am

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qmp k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^4@@<H92EJ@F=@G6]4@>^AF>A<:?\H277=6D^QmAF>A<:? H277=6k^2m 3C:?8D 72== DA:46 :?E@ E96 32D6 H:E9@FE 492?8:?8 E96 DECF4EFC6] k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^4@@<H92EJ@F=@G6]4@>^3FEE6C>:=<\7C:65\49:4<6?^QmqFEE6C>:=< 7C:65 49:4<6?k^2m DA:465 H:E9 42J6??6 @C D>@<65 A2AC:<2 AFED E96 962E :? E96 AC@E6:?[ ?@E E96 D2F46] w@E 9@?6J :?DE625 @7 >2A=6 DJCFA 56=:G6CD DH66E 962E :? 2 D:?8=6 A@FC] %96 32D6[ E96 AC@E6:?[ E96 3C:586i 2?J @7 E96 E9C66 42? 492?86] %96 4@>3:?2E:@? DE:== H@C<D]k^Am

k9a 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\9625:?8Qmq6J@?5 3CF?49k^9am

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm$H66E\D2=EJ AC@5F4ED :? E96 D?24< 42E68@CJ 92G6 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^E2DE6H:D6]:@^3=@8^DH66E\2?5\D2=EJ\7@@5DQm8C@H? ?62C=J b_Tk^2m @G6C E96 A2DE `a >@?E9D[ >@G:?8 E96 A2:C:?8 A2DE C6DE2FC2?E @442D:@?D 2?5 :?E@ E96 6G6CJ52J 2:D=6] (92E DE2CE65 2D 2 DA64:7:4 =2E6\?:89E 7:I :D ?@H 2 7=6I:3=6 7@C>F=2 24C@DD 7@@5 42E68@C:6D] %96 4@>3:?2E:@? H@C<D[ 2?5 6?@F89 A6@A=6 :? 6?@F89 5:776C6?E 4@?E6IED 92G6 7@F?5 E92E @FE @? E96:C @H?] (92E DE2CE65 2D 2 7:I 7@C @?6 @442D:@?[ 2E @?6 9@FC[ :? @?6 4:EJ[ :D ?@H 2 AC:?4:A=6 E92E D9@HD FA :? 2 492:? 3C62<72DE D2?5H:49[ 2 8C@46CJ D?24< 2:D=6 2?5 2 7@C>2= :?5FDECJ EC6?5 7@C642DE] %92E :D 2 =@?86C C6249 E92? 2?J <:E496? :? `hbg 925 C62D@? E@ 6IA64E]k^Am

kA 4=2DDlQHA\3=@4<\A2C28C2A9Qm|2?5J pAA=682E6 :D E96 4C62E@C 369:?5 k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^HHH]DA=2D9@7E2DE6]4@>^Qm$A=2D9 @7 %2DE6k^2m 2?5 D6G6? @E96C 9:89\AC@7:=6 7@@5 2?5 EC2G6= 3=@8D] $96’D 2=D@ E96 4@\7@F?56C @7 u@@5 sC:?< {:76 x?4][ 2 F?:BF6 2?5 9:89=J C6H2C5:?8 4@==23@C2E:G6 3=@886C AC@;64E] w6C 2CE:4=6D 2AA62C 7C6BF6?E=J @? >2;@C @?=:?6 ?6HD D:E6D[ 2?5 D96 2=H2JD 92D 96C 6J6D @A6? E@ DA@E E96 ?6IE 3:8 EC6?5]k^Am

kAm%96 A@DE k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>^?2E:@?2=\49:4<6?\2?5\H277=6D\52J^Qmp >:5?:89E 4@>AC@>:D6 7C@> `hbg w2C=6> 3642>6 E96 7=2G@C 7@C>F=2 E96 7@@5 :?5FDECJ =:G6D 3Jk^2m 2AA62C65 7:CDE @? k2 9C67lQ9EEADi^^7@@55C:?<=:76]4@>Qmu@@5 sC:?< {:76k^2m]k^Am